Restaurant review: Mildreds, W1

A little soho gem for the veggie, vegan or arancini-enthusiast in your life.

Mildreds restaurant, London
Image courtesy of Mildreds

Go: For a casual, midweek dinner with friends

Eat: Sun-blushed tomato, mozzarella and parmesan risotto cake with grape mustard sauce, wilted spinach and green beans

Pay: Around £11 for a main

If you hear anyone complaining that vegetarian food is boring and tasteless, just shake your head, and point them in the direction of Mildreds.

Although first, they’ll have to join the ranks of those waiting to get a table in this small-yet-welcoming spot in Soho. You can’t book in advance, so queues are inevitable. But as a popular restaurant they’ve learnt to handle the queuing situation with an Argos-like flair – you simply need to be added to their iPad queue, and (unlike Argos) get a few drinks in at the bar while you wait. When we went on a Tuesday evening around 7ish we were told it would be a 45-minute to an hour wait, but were seated within half an hour.

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The décor is minimal and the tables crammed close together. But that’s all part of the charm. The atmosphere is warm and friendly making it the perfect place to wile away an evening chatting with friends and sinking a few bottles of vino. Obviously, vegetarians will be in their element. The whole menu is your oyster (or veggie equivalent…). Many dishes are also vegan or can be made vegan at request.

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This isn’t just a restaurant for vegans, though. It’s a restaurant for people who have taste-buds and enjoy good, filling food. The first time had the pleasure of going to Mildreds I was so drunk I can’t remember which delightful dish I ordered. But the second time (at Ellie’s recommendation), we both ordered the risotto, which came in what was essentially a giant arincini ball. It was super cheesy, so not one for vegan punters, but oh my goodness I haven’t stopped thinking about it since.

45 Lexington Street, W1F 9AN, mildreds.co.uk

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